Tra Vigne

Tra Vigne is a great, classic Italian spot in St. Helena that was recommended by two great friends in Seattle. They said they've tried to make it a point to go here every time they've been to Napa, and I can definitely see why.

The interior is huge, with vaulted ceilings, well-spaced seating, and a couple lifted booths that overlook the entire dining room. People come dressed as casual or as formal as they want, and nobody seems to mind.

The atmosphere outside is just as friendly as it is inside, except the diners outside get to enjoy Napa Valley's clear, warm nights. And eating among the lush vegetation outside makes you feel like you're in Italy, eating tra vigne, or between vines (thanks, Google Transalte).

My family's meal's meal started off with a beautiful set of bread and olive oil. The bread was crisp and the interior was light. The olive oil was top-notch and rich in flavor.

Our first of two appetizers was a well-executed Classic Caesar. The creamy garlic dressing was punchy, the forno-roasted croutons were crunchy and rustic, and the boquerones, or anchovies, were briny and amazingly flavorful. The cheese was filling, generous, and just sharp enough to complement the crisp, refreshing romaine lettuce.

My favorite of the two appetizers was the Mozzarella Cheese "Al Minuto". The mozzarella is handmade to order, and comes with table-side service. The waiter sliced up the humungous ball of mozzarella--smartly seasoned with Napa Valley olive oil, salt, and pepper--into six long slices.

The cheese is placed on six accompanying slices of grilled bread and briefly garnished with a couple sprigs of rosemary to transform the separates into bruschetta.

The first bite was heaven. The tempered mozzarella cheese melted at contact with my tongue. The outer rim of the mozzarella had just the slightest chew, while the interior offered the creamiest, purest, most refreshing mozzarella I've ever eaten. The light seasoning was perfect, and the amazing olive oil shone on its own as much as it bolstered the flavor of the cheese. Each subsequent bite was as heavenly as the first, and I was darn close to ordering another round.

Our table also shared a Wood Oven Baked Fig Pizza. The blistered crust was rustic and crispy, but the rest of the pizza dough was a little too chewy and moist for my taste. But that didn't stop me from enjoying each and every bite of this pizza. The toppings were fantastic. Sister Mercy's black mission figs, gorgonzola, arugula, and aged balsamic reminded me of a classic fig salad. The figs were gooey and the gorgonzola was sharp. The creamy funk of the cheese was balanced by the bitter arugula and sweetly acidic balsamic.

The best dishes I had at Tra Vigne, aside from the mozzarella, were their amazing housemade pastas. Six options made it difficult for the table to pare the options down to three, but thanks to the waiter's suggestions, the three we chose were outstanding.

The Sage Infused Pappardelle came out as green as soil. I guess I was just expecting the pappardelle to take on the same vibrant color that spinach-based pasta flaunts. But not to worry, the flavor of the actual pasta exposed the potency of sage. And you must know by now that sage is one of my top five herbs. Tossed in a forest of braised rabbit ragu, wild mushrooms, and grana padano cheese, this pasta exceeded my expectations. Despite being just a tad bit on the salty side, the ragu was hearty and lightly gamey. The tender rabbit was unforgettable and the meaty chew of the rabbit got along well with the perfectly al dente ribbons of pappardelle. The cheese was more of a garnish, which is usually something I'd disagree with, but in this case, I didn't mind the scarcity of cheese at all. The earthy portion of wild mushrooms rounded out the whole dish.

While the Rigatoni alla Carbonara wasn't my number one pick of the trio, it was a shining example of how an Italian classic can still make an unsuspecting impact on a meal. I also appreciated how light this rendition of a traditionally heavy dish was. The rigatoni was buoyant and textured, the salty guanciale and flavorful onions were still hearty, and the organic eggs, cracked pepper, and parmesan kept this pasta perfectly seasoned.

Other than the pappardelle, my favorite pasta was the Maltagliati Verde. The basil-and-spinach-infused pasta was the perfect way to lighten up the slow-cooked pozzi ranch lamb, and the sangiovese wine sugo gave the pasta some sweetness and heart, almost as if the slow-cooked ranch lamb was braised in a sweet red wine. The gaminess of the lamb really came through on this one and the maltagliati, like all the other pastas, had an incredibly satisfying texture.

I'm sure you can find great pasta at other places in Napa Valley, but from my experience with Napa so far, Tra Vigne's takes the cake. And if you're debating where to go to dinner for classic Italian food, Tra Vigne definitely, without a doubt, beats Bottega (I know, I know--those are fighting words). The food is traditional with some seasonal interpretations, the service and atmosphere are bright, and prices are surprisingly uninflated: a refreshing experience, to say the least, in a valley saturated with overly pretentious and expensive dining.

Tra Vigne

1050 Charter Oak Ave

St. Helena, CA 94574

(707) 963-4444

http://www.travignerestaurant.com/

GET: Mozzarella Cheese "Al Minuto"; Sage Infused Pappardelle; Maltagliati Verde.

Ad Hoc

If I were to have a restaurant, Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc is probably the restaurant I would aspire to be. It's casual, centered around family-style dinners, and is just as focused on flavor as The French Laundry. They share a different four-course menu every day, but certain dishes have become a standard. One of those dishes is their famous Monday night buttermilk fried chicken, and lucky for me, I was able to snag a reservation for Monday night.

The space is lively, friendly, and warm, with ample bar seating and plenty of table space. The restaurant can feel a bit crowded, depending on where you sit, but ultimately, Ad Hoc provides a fun dining experience.

As professional as any other Thomas Keller restaurant, service here was prompt, kind, and unpretentious. The decor is unbearably clever and the reflective tables and chairs suggest inspiration from a traditional American diner.

Everything about the food is ad hoc. It's all thoughtfully constructed, well-executed, and darn delicious. I would expect nothing less from the great Thomas Keller.

The meal kicked off with a tasty basket of bread, courtesy of Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery down the street. Fluffy and classic.

Soon after came the Endive and Arugula Salad, presented on a wide, bright blue serving platter. The assortment of Belgian endives, red endives, toasted pine nuts, Black Jonathan apples, shaved shallots, sliced prosciutto, and balsamic vinaigrette was just as colorful as its bitter, sweet, and refreshing flavors. The classic combination of prosciutto and apple played off of the sweeter balsamic, while the crisp endives and sharp shallots brightened up the entire salad. The pine nuts added the perfect touch of rich nuttiness to the dish.

The next course was the one, the only, Buttermilk Fried Chicken. Served on a grand two-handled skillet, the fried chicken's addictive and comforting aroma invaded all four sets of nostrils at the table.

This course came with a hearty serving of Red Bliss Potatoes, Haricots Verts, and Bacon Lardons. The green beans were crisp and perfectly seasoned, the potatoes were a great replacement for mashed potatoes, and the bacon lardons made sure you wouldn't leave this meal feeling hungry.

The chicken also came with some addictive Black Pepper Biscuits with Fig Jam. Buttery and fluffy with a crispy exterior, these are probably some of the best biscuits I've ever had. I know, but seriously, Popeye's, step aside. The black pepper was subtle and the fig jam added some seasonal sweetness. Personally, I preferred the biscuit plain.

The chicken itself was outrageous. Brittle and crispy skin laced with bits of rosemary opened up to a juicy, lemony interior. Dark meat or white, each bite bursted with flavor. I'm no fried chicken aficionado, but this is, hands down, the best fried chicken I've ever had. Again, Popeye's, step aside.

The most amazing thing about this fried chicken, however, wasn't the taste. It was how I felt after eating more than my share of the stuff. Surprisingly, I didn't feel like I had just eaten anything heavy. It still doesn't make sense in my head to say this, but I felt like I had just eaten the healthiest preparation of fried chicken in the world. I'm going to have to try to make this at home at some point.

The third course featured Central Coast Creamery's Seascape. The semi-soft creamy cheese tasted like a classic cheddar with a some tang and a little kick from a goat at the finish.

The lightly sweet Marshall's Farm Wildflower Honey and and rich, aromatic, toasted pecans were a great way to compliment the tanginess of the cheese.

The final course was a quartet of Blueberry Financiers with Lime Chantilly.

The financier itself was spongy, packed with melted blueberries, and light touches of nuttiness.

The lime chantilly was smooth and creamy, like a whipped mascarpone. The subtle lime lightened up the chantilly and the financier. Overall, the dessert was light and manageable.

With our check came some Coconut Macaroons, just in case any of us were aching for more food. They were delicious enough and really gave some perspective as to just how dang delicious those financiers were.

By the time my family and I left Ad Hoc, we felt perfectly full. Not uncomfortable, temporarily relieved from hunger, and ready to go back to the hotel and play two hours of Pictionary.

For your viewing pleasure, here's what my 80-some-year-old grandma drew. Yes, it was her first time playing this game. And yes, it was awesome.

Ad Hoc

6476 Washington St

Yountville, CA 94599

(707) 944-2487

http://www.adhocrestaurant.com/

GET: A reservation and be prepared to eat whatever delicious family meal they throw your way, but if you can, get a Monday reservation for buttermilk fried chicken.

Redd

So now that I've got the whole 24 Roast Chickens cram session out of the way, let's revisit that ole Napa trip I took back in what...September? Yikes. Looks like I've still got some serious catching up to do.

Set up along a stretch of road familiar to anyone who's had the opportunity to make it out to Yountville, CA, Redd features incredible, focused dishes in a visually fancy, yet entirely casual setting, at least at lunch. Unthreatened by the likes of The French Laundry, Bouchon, and Ad Hoc, Redd soaks up a morning of wine tastings with a healthy mix of bright and hearty small plates. Asian flavors were surprisingly prominent, and every single meat was prepared to perfection. In addition to all the great food, service was stellar. The whole package made their Michelin star appear unjustly lonely.

Eating at Redd with a party of six was a dream. We were able to tackle a good chunk of the menu and I left feeling like I hadn't missed out on too much of the other stuff.

First up was the Crispy Calimari, Cayenne Salt, Tamarind Sauce, and Vietnamese Dressing. The calimari was perfectly crispy with just the right amount of saltiness and kick. The tamarind sauce played off of a fish sauce and hoisin-flavored dressing extremely well. I have to say, I'd love to see more places preparing calimari with delicately devised Asian seasonings and Asian-inspired sauces.

The Simple Forni Brown Green Salad, Warm Goat Cheese, Hazelnuts, and Sherry Vinaigrette was to die for. The star of this salad was definitely the goat cheese. Baked to adopt a slightly crispy shell, the cheese came off sweeter and less sharp than your typical goat cheese. The slightly bitter greens were straightforward and simple, but the hazelnuts and tart vinaigrette added an awesomely nutty and acidic flavor to the hefty portion of goat cheese.

Our second salad was a Smoked Trout Salad, Beets, Lemon Vinaigrette, and Horseradish Creme Fraiche. The smoked trout was rich, smokey, and refreshingly briny. Though I probably could have lived off of the trout alone for the next ten minutes, I was pleasantly surprised by the ability of the beets to ground the dish, the lemon vinaigrette to bring some needed acidity, and the creamy horseradish shavings to bring in that perfect punch. The accompanying bread was unnecessary, but that didn't stop the other people at the table from indulging in a a self-constructed crostini.

According to Yelp, we weren't allowed to leave Redd without trying the Glazed Pork Belly, Apple Puree, Burdock, and Soy Caramel. And I'm glad we didn't. This thick cut of deliciously sweet pork belly is, by itself, overwhelming at first, but the tart puree, julienned burdock, and bitter frisee find a way to reign in the richness of this dish without sacrificing any of the central, porky, fatty flavors of this dish. Above everything else, the soy caramel does something particularly special. Like a well choreographed dance, the pork and bitter caramel quickstep past your tongue, leaving mere imprints and impressions, finding their way deep into the recesses of your belly.

Our first larger small plate were the Steamed Pork Buns, Hoisin, and Vegetable Salad. This was probably the weakest dish of the meal. Though I appreciated the housemade efforts to create a tribute to the ubiquitous pork bun, Redd fell a little bit short with its stringy pork, doughy bun, demandingly salty and sweet hoisin sauce, and underwhelming and basic Asian salad.

But let bygones be bygones. The next dish was outrageously delicious. The Caramelized Diver Scallops, Cauliflower Puree, Almonds, and Balsamic Reduction lived up to all of its hype.

The scallops were perfectly cooked, with a tough sear and a delicate interior. The seasoning was exact--not a touch too salty and not a centimeter too bland. The overwhelming flurry of almonds topped on cauliflower puree added an earthiness and nuttiness to the dish. The balsamic brought everything together with a unifying sweetness and tartness.

Our last main was the Braised Beef Short Rib, Bacon, Cipollini Onions, Fingerling Potatoes, and Red Wine Jus.

Ho. Lee. Ish. I mean, everything I'd had to this point had been unbelievably delicious, but this was another level of tongue smacking the upside of your head. Maybe it was the sous vide short rib. Maybe it was the surprisingly subtle integration of bacon. Or the insanely sweet cipollini onions. Or the melt-in-your-mouth fingerling potatoes with that perfectly sweet jus. Whether it was one or three or all eighty of those things, LOOKATTHATSHORTRIB.

To calm things down a bit after an amazing lunch, we sipped on a delicious bowl of Summer Berry Sorbets, Lime Granite, and Graham Streusel. Great texture, just the right amount of sweetness, and a right acidity from the lime granite. Strawberry, blackberry, and raspberry. How did they know how much I love strawberry and raspberry? And blackberry? And blueberry? And huckleberry??? Alright, fine, they didn't do all of those, but lordie, I love summer berries.

Unfortunately, the respite from the heavy short rib only lasted through the sorbet course. Our last course consisted of Chocolate, Peanut Butter Beignets, Bitter Caramel Ice Cream, and Bananas. Basically, awesome sweetness arranged to dig up nostalgic flavors of candy bars, banana split sundaes, and carnivals. In true tribute to those nostalgic flavors, this dessert was undeniably sugary and indulgent.

So I took a single bite and relived a slew of childlike flavors. Basically one of the best sundaes I've ever eaten. Just make sure to share this dessert with plenty of people. More than one bite can leave you in a stupor akin to post-Halloween sugar hangovers.

Roses are Redd, violets are blue, some really great grub, I hope you go too.

Sorry, I just had to.

Redd

6480 Washington Street

Yountville, CA 94599

(707) 944-2222

http://www.reddnapavalley.com/

GET: Simple Forni Brown Green Salad, Warm Goat Cheese, Hazelnuts, and Sherry Vinaigrette; Glazed Pork Belly, Apple Puree, Burdock, and Soy Caramel; Caramelized Diver Scallops, Cauliflower Puree, Almonds, and Balsamic Reduction; Braised Beef Short Rib, Bacon, Cipollini Onions, Fingerling Potatoes, and Red Wine Jus; Chocolate, Peanut Butter Beignets, Bitter Caramel Ice Cream, and Bananas.

Ubuntu Restaurant

I had trouble planning out where to eat the day after an expectedly epic dinner at The French Laundry. I felt that wherever I went to the next day would pale in comparison. So with serious caution and hesitation, my family and I decided to go to Ubuntu.

Ubuntu is currently headed up by Aaron London. With a signature topknot, Chef London cooks up a completely vegetarian menu featuring fresh ingredients with unexpected flavor combinations. Very rarely does a vegetarian restaurant get much hype. Even more rarely does a vegetarian restaurant, with a yoga studio on the second floor, might I add, get any recognition by Michelin. But Ubuntu did, does, and will continue to get that recognition.

With my relatively recent love for vegetarian restaurants fostered during my time in the Northwest, I had high hopes for Ubuntu. I was also hoping the strictly vegetarian menu would balance out the excessive tasting menu from the night before.

The restaurant was surprisingly empty for lunch. During the hour-and-a-half my family spent at the restaurant, we saw only three other occupied tables. I'm sure dinner services are much more lively, but the lunch scene felt much more intimate, as if we were invited by London to dine in his home.

Once the six of us settled into our seats, our server gave us some time to peruse the menu. We spent a good ten minutes debating the best way to tackle the menu as a group. The server came over and saved the day when she offered to compile a fixed, six-course family style lunch. Done and done.

The meal started with their featured snacks of the day. First up were Marinated 'Castelvetrano' Olives. The olives were a vivid green, weren't too salty, and had a mild and soft flavor. They came tossed in a carrot top pesto that made these olives incredibly addictive. The olives even looked like they were sweating beads of deliciousness. I could've eaten a huge bowl of these by themselves and just called it a meal. But I couldn't. Because sharing is caring.

The second snack was some Local 'Marcona' Almonds. Crunchy, oily, and crispy, these almonds came tossed in some homemade Vadouvan spice and some sweet herbs. Vadouvan spice is a combination that usually contains shallots, garlic, onions, cardamom, and curry leaves that is often compared to cumin or Indian curry (yeah, I had to look that up). The spice made the almonds incredibly savory and flavorful, while the sweet herbs brought some necessary counterbalancing. I also could have just eaten a basket of these and called it a meal. But I didn't. Because I was too busy smiling at the fact that I'd already experienced some amazing food before the first course even came out.

Our first course was Stewed Chickpeas a lá Catalan. Seemingly boring, outrageously delicious. The delicious, soft chickpeas shone through the rich, deceptively meaty romesco sauce, and came with a slowly poached farm egg and 'Surrey' arugula. Not the most interesting dish, but really, really good nonetheless. Interest to come.

The first course was accompanied by some fluffy sourdough and creamy, salted butter.

Second was a Summer Squash and 24 Hour 'Ox Heart' Carrots in a Cool Salad. For a family-sized portion, this massive dish was surprisingly beautiful. This was a characteristic that would continue throughout the meal. The rim of the plate was adorned with an amazing assortment of colors and flavors. The heart of the dish rested in a yellow thai curry sauce that brought the summer squash and melt-in-your-mouth carrots to another level. The cold temperature against the curry flavor profile played some mind tricks, while a hazelnut-coconut crumble and some basil and mint did their jobs to balance out the traditionally warm flavors of curry.

Next up was a Pole Bean and Smoked Cucumber Salad with Cool Burrata and Miso Radish. The pole beans were to die for. They were perfectly crunchy and succulent and the thin strips of cucumber were brought to life through their newly acquired smokiness. The miso radish brought brightness and depth of flavor, which balanced perfectly with the powerful clouds of fennel. The 'Flavorosa' pluots was just sweet enough to melt into the creamy burrata and the tarragon dressing was a flavorful play on a sprinkle of herbs. The flavors were mind-blowing and the freshness of all the ingredients was amazing.

The third course was what I would consider the first of two entrées. I say entrées because these courses were noticeably heavier and more filling. These courses slapped any thoughts I had of vegetarian food not being filling or satisfying. The heavier of the two was the Warm Focaccia with Eggplant, Ground Cherry, and Espelette Capponatta. The focaccia was soft and gooey, which was further goo-ified by the creamy ricotta and the deliciously cooked eggplant kicked up with some spice and bronze fennel. The ground cherry added some rich sweetness and some pickled 'Eisley wax' peppers added some crunchy texture and needed acidity. While this was probably the heaviest dish of the meal, I found myself constantly spooning for more.

Fourth was a homey bowl of Arbuckle Grits Cooked with Goat's Milk Whey, and Peach-Pistachio-Basil Bud Soffrito. This reminded me of a dish I recently had at Los Angeles' Red Medicine, but with a completely different flavor profile. The grits were infused with the delicious tartness and funkiness of goat's milk, but wasn't overpowering. The grits themselves were as creamy and thick as a well-tended polenta. The peach-pistachio-basil bud soffrito was a perfect combination of sweet, nutty, and herbal, which all played well off of the acidity and sharpness of pickled green tomatoes and the potent, almond-based nuttiness of noyaux oil. This dish was just heavy enough to follow up the focaccia and finish out the savories without making my stomach explode.

The dessert course was a welcomingly light and refreshing Silverado Trail Strawberry Pudding. At first glance, I didn't see any of the advertised pudding. All I saw was a green mound of shaved ice. My first spoonful, and ten subsequent spoonfuls, begged to differ. The green ice was a delicious cucumber granita that could have lived a life of its own. But sitting underneath the granita was a perfectly tart rhubarb jam balanced by an absurdly creamy, yet light, base of pudding. I couldn't believe the cloud-like pudding could support the weight of the cucumber granita, but it did, and as the flavors got to know each other in my mouth, I couldn't stop reaching for more. This was easily the favorite of the table, even though it was the dessert course. Really amazing stuff.

Service was as focused as the food, but was also casual and comforting. Everyone was friendly and professional throughout the meal and the pace of the meal was perfect. At the heart of the experience was a sincere communication of the restaurant's namesake: Ubuntu. Archbishop Desmond Tutu described this African philosophy, saying, "Ubuntu speaks particularly about the fact that you can't exist as a human being in isolation. It speaks about our interconnectedness. You can't be human all by yourself, and when you have this quality – Ubuntu – you are known for your generosity. We think of ourselves far too frequently as just individuals, separated from one another, whereas you are connected and what you do affects the whole World. When you do well, it spreads out; it is for the whole of humanity." I couldn't help but feel that philosophy flow through the restaurant's dishes and staff's personality.

After meeting the chef and singing our praises, we left the restaurant with huge smiles on our faces, ready to tackle the rest of the day with a re-centered respect for food, health, and appropriately, each other.

Ubuntu Restaurant

1140 Main Street

Napa, CA 94559

(707) 251-5656

http://ubuntunapa.com/restaurant/

GET: Anything. It's all delicious.