Wurstküche

Sausages are one of those things that sound like a bad idea, but taste like a great idea. And Wurstküche, or sausage kitchen, is a great addition to the "great idea" sausage cause. The line clings to the building's exterior, filled with people waiting to get their fix of sausages that range from staple bratwursts to the more novel alligators, rattlesnakes, and rabbits. You'd think they'd tuck away their novelty sausages in some hidden kitchen to add to their mystery, but instead, the sausages stare at you straight in the face the moment you walk in.

The first time I waited in Wurstküche's line and finally got in, I was amazed at how small the grill was for such a fast-paced operation. I guess all you really need to cook a bunch of sausages is a good grill, but for some reason, I was expecting something epically gigantic. The system was simple, clean, and beautiful. Never have I seen so many sausages cooking away next to heaping amounts of spicy peppers, sweet peppers, caramelized onions, and sauerkraut.

After a sometimes crowded, hectic, and spur-of-the-moment ordering process, you take your order number and enter what looks like an industrial, indoor biergarten. Exposed brick, dim lighting, wood benches, and long parchment-wrapped tables make Wurstküche extremely casual and friendly. The equally long German and Belgian tap makes things even friendlier. There's not as much pressure at the bar to order very quickly, so take your time, talk with the knowledgeable bartender, sample a couple beers, and make your selection. I usually get a Belgian white, amber ale, or hefeweizen when I eat here because I like the way they go with wursts.

The food here is basically limited to sausages and fries, but it's all exceptional. The Belgian Fries are crispy, juicy, and irresistible. The fries come spilling out of a paper cone, which is usually enough to share between at least two people.

The fries also come with the option of selecting several different sauces. My favorites have to be the Curry Ketchup and the Chipotle Aioli. You'll like the Curry Ketchup if you like just that: curry and ketchup. I love ketchup, and ever since I had currywurst for the first time in Berlin at Curry 36, I was hooked. The curry powder that goes into curry ketchup gives the ketchup a savory depth of flavor. The Chipotle Aioli is also addictive. The smokey chipotle pepper is balanced out by a reasonable aioli and makes it difficult to choose which sauce to dip your fry in.

As if choosing among sauces wasn't hard enough, each table has a bottle of Whole-Grain Mustard. I love the way whole-grain mustards have that chew and substance to them, and this mustard does not disappoint.

I have four go-to wursts, depending on how I'm feeling. If I have that itch for a solid, traditional German sausage, I'll get the Bratwurst. The Bratwurst takes me to the days I spent in Germany at local biergartens. Like the rest of their sausages, this wurst explodes with juicy deliciousness and packs a nice black pepper punch.

If I feel like getting a chili-cheese dog, I'll get the Duck & Bacon with Jalapeño Peppers. I say a chili-cheese dog because that's exactly what it tastes like. This sausage is packed with flavor, but is also one of the heaviest. This one's extremely satisfying on a cold or rainy day.

If I feel like something spicy with some Cajun twist, I go with the Louisiana Hot Link. Spicy, sweet, and full of andouille-like goodness, this link goes great with a cold beer.

If I feel like something a little more off the beaten path, and if I feel like something outrageously juicy, I get the Rattlesnake & Rabbit with Jalapeño Peppers. This wurst has a little bit of a restrained gamey-ness balanced out by what I'm guessing is the rattlesnake. Be careful though. This rattlesnake-infused wurst is so juicy, the hot juices might bite you on the tongue.

Each wurst comes with the option of getting two toppings. Some people like it clean and easy to eat, but I like to get the most bang for my buck, and the toppings don't take anything away from the wursts. I like my Bratwurst with Caramelized Onions and Spicy Peppers, my Duck & Bacon with Jalapeño Peppers and Caramelized Onions, my Louisiana Hot Link with Caramelized Onions and Sweet Peppers, and my Rattlesnake & Rabbit with Jalapeño Peppers and Caramelized Onions. Yes, I like caramelized onions.

Though some of the sausages are passable (i.e., the Alligator & Pork, Smoked Andouille Sausage), you're more likely to get a hit than a miss. Their sausages are stuffed and cooked with care, and the atmosphere makes this a great place to have a quick dinner over drinks.

Wurstküche is one of best küches in my book.

Wurstküche

800 East 3rd Street
Los Angeles, CA 90013

(213) 687-4444

http://www.wurstkucherestaurant.com/

GET: Beer; Belgian Fries; Curry Ketchup; Chipotle Aioli; Whole-Grain Mustard; Bratwurst with Caramelized Onions and Spicy Peppers; Duck & Bacon with Jalapeño Peppers and Caramelized Onions; Louisiana Hot Link with Caramelized Onions and Sweet Peppers; Rattlesnake & Rabbit with Jalapeño Peppers and Caramelized Onions.